Flipping through this week's journal entries... Let's begin here. Sorry about the length
Wednesday, June 13th:I just dropped off Jen Reed, Julie Payne and Meghan Knapke—visiting college friends— at the airport, and have settled down to write before check-out. It’s comfortable here at the Grand Tikal Futura Hotel, with vacuums buzzing in the corridors and rain pouring outside my window—except for the large tremor that just shook the building until the lampshade fell sideways.
Really, a minor earthquake just hit Guatemala! The maids are in the hallway now, talking about how many seconds it lasted… 50, they say. The women are far more unnerved about the quaking than I, because five minutes later; I have curled back up in my chair to continue with my quiet morning. There is no doubt about it; chaos seems normal to me these days.
This past week in Pinalito with my college buddies was a great example. I had hoped to treat my friends to a full-scale Guatemalan adventure vacation, complete with delicious mangoes and fried plantains, morning hikes to the villagers’ houses with a thermos full of Pinalito coffee, and three days of creative revamping of my library.
By their second day, however, I was reminded NOT to have expectations in such grand adventures. I got a flat tire before we even started up the mountain, and on top of that, you see, the rainy season has started in Guatemala. As the sky turns gray, work is second priority; projects get left undone and life returns to a snail’s pace. The roads are washed out, and our pickup truck only serves us to the nearby village of Matasano. Although the girls were primed and ready to hike into the village, the 250 pounds of books and teaching supplies that I had excitedly insisted they bring became a two-day load for local horses.
(I’ll skip over the pee-drenched babies and lice infestations, girls… you all can attest to an adventure for sure. Thanks for coming down to help!)
Thursday, June 14th:We spent the morning driving around Guatemala City again, searching blindly for a store that might have power inverters for the new solar panel that Melanie has invested in. As we finally pulled into the parking garage of Pricesmart, the Sam’s Club style warehouse that is sure to have everything, we received a phone call from Pinalito.
“Where is the Epinephrine in the clinic? There is a little girl in Anaphylactic shock—she is vomiting blood, and has had several seizures.”
Esmeralda, the daughter of Rugina (one of my working women) and Gregorio, is 5. She is the cleanest, best-dressed, and most spoiled child of the village, if you ask me, but for good reason. Two years ago, her sister Milagro died in a night of seizures, leaving Esmeralda as the only little girl in her family of five boys. Since then, her mother lives in constant worry that is etched into her face. Today, that worry is justified. This is a picture of Esmeralda last November:

Melanie and I do our best to describe where the Epinephrine
might be, and then we get on the road for Zacapa, stopping only to pray in the store parking lot.
On the way out of town, the rain starts. It’s a deluge. I cannot see ten feet in front of me. As Melanie and I pass through the mountains, rocks start to fall from the cliffs. The traffic slows to a crawl as everyone weaves through. Our air-conditioner is broken, and we have to leave the windows open to keep the windshield from fogging up. It is a scary trip. We have our cell phones in hand throughout the trip. We follow Esmeralda’s status from the highway: Ron Moro (Rocky Beene’s brother) finds the Epi pens, give her a shot, carries her to Matasano, and then drives her to the hospital. Esmeralda stablizes. She is put on an IV, and falls asleep in her mother’s arms.
Melanie and I arrive in Zacapa at midnight, wet and exhausted.
Friday, June 15th:After breakfast, we head to the hospital this morning to see Esmeralda. She is in the pediatrics ward, held tightly by her exhausted mother. We pay for a cefalagram, a juicebox and a new dress. The results show possibilities of Epilepsy. This infirmity, to be sure, will plague Esmeralda her entire life. Ron hands Gregorio, Esmeralda’s dad, a fistful of cash to help out.
I head up the mountain with Ron and the boys around 2:00. The road is worse, and clouds are looming. The hard rains are quickly creating trenches over five feet deep. We arrive in Pinalito around 4:30, just in time to shut the doors before another deluge arrives. Ron and the boys have to spend the night in Pinalito. They try to wash dishes, clean the house, and teach me some basic plumbing. Unfortunately, we have no water. The tank at the top of the mountain has clogged with debris.
Saturday, June 16th:
The widows are lined up outside my front door today at 8:00. Today is the day that I give widow’s food each month, and although several are still getting the hang of a schedule, there are 13 at my door today, ready for their monthly allotment. Around 9:00 am, Ron and the boys leave the village with a villager’s loaded-down horse in tow. I am nervous as they walk away—no one else will be up on the mountain with me this week. It’s been a long time since I’ve been up here flying solo. Melanie is taking a break in town this week, hanging out with a visiting team from North Carolina.
Of course, there is no time to be nervous. The needs of this village keep my legs and mind churning. My little friend Yolanda comes early in the early afternoon to tell me about her sick baby sister, Nirsa. I am worried immediately. At five years old, Nirsa only weighs eighteen pounds. I can’t imagine that she has much of an immune system. On top of that, she is one of my favorites—a spunky, rebellious little girl that can entertain the room with her pointy face and sharp expressions.

When her mom arrives with Nirsa wrapped in a vomit-covered towel, I race for the doctor’s manual and a stethoscope. Her breathing makes me think pneumonia—fast and shallow, but when it comes right down to it, I am as nervous as her mother. I have no idea what the problem is, and I nearly panic when her mom asks me, bluntly, “She is going to die, right?”
I give Nirsa a Salbuterol breathing treatment, like the ones my grandmother used to receive with her emphysema, antibiotics and a bottle of baby Tylenol. Although her mother is not happy about the idea, I insist that we bathe the child with warm water. Nirsa is too weak to fight the bath, although her face shows that same pointed impatience that used to make me laugh. This time, I can’t laugh, especially as she throws up an entire round of antibiotics.
Sunday, June 17th:I run to Nirsa’s house to check on her before church. The doors and windows are closed. Everyone has left. I ask around a little bit—they walked down to the hospital in Zacapa. I am scared to think that my little friend might be worse, and, at the same time, relieved that I do not have to be responsible for her.
I spend my day in church and chatting with the pastor’s wife. I pray for Nirsa, and make plans to walk to Zacapa with her stepfather as soon as possible.
Monday, June 18th:
More widows arrive at my front door as I chat on the phone with Mom over coffee. Anxious to take care of the remaining eleven ladies, I go the food storeroom to give out the remaining rice and beans.
As I unlock the storeroom door, I notice a trail of ants carrying pieces of corn, and I get a sick feeling in the pit of my stomach. There are several sacks of food missing, and corn is spilled all over the floor. Immediately, I turn to the one window in the storeroom. It has been broken—the welding pulled out so that any small Guatemalan can squeeze through. At least eight bags of food were stolen… 800 pounds of food for the widows and students program.

We call the police and join together of committee of men. Several people in the village whisper names in my ear—pointing fingers as to who the robber might be. “Nino” I hear most often, and I demand,
“Come on, men! Why don’t we just go over to his house and demand that he gives the food back…. There is at least eight men here to gang up on him!”
Upon listening to this, Max, my friend and co-teacher, immediately pulls me aside, warning me that this is dangerous stuff, and that there are men in Pinalito that I should steer clear of.
This is a side of my little village that I haven’t seen. I am crushed by it. We call the police to help in the matter, but they will not walk further than Matasano. Pinalito is officially isolated for the rainy season—the law does not reach this high.
Tuesday, June 19th:
I wake up with nausea and stomach grumbling that pin me to the bed. My head is spinning, and what’s more… we still don’t have water. Nothing with which to flush toilets, wash dishes, or wipe my face clean. My misery hits hard this morning, and I wonder why on EARTH I have chosen to live here. Women are outside, waiting for me to give them any remaining widow’s food, or medicine at the clinic, or a load of clothes to wash in the slimy water at the bottom of their outdoor sinks. But I can barely open my front door… how can I face Pinalito today?
At 9:15, I finally manage to unlock my door to feed the dogs. I tell the women on my porch that we have to wait for water before there is work today, and then I nearly fall back into the apartment. When I wake up again at 10:00, it is to Carolina, the pastor’s wife, boiling some horrible jelly of cornstarch and water for me to drink. “It will make you better,” she assures me, and leaves it by the couch.
Later on, I hear the water dripping. Carolina has insisted that the men fix the plumbing at all costs, three days without water is long enough. Julia, my dear house-helper, is inside washing dishes. She brings me a hot cup of coffee, insisting that a really bitter batch will make me better, guaranteed.
The next time I wake up, it is to Sofia, the slightly senile old woman who we make lunch for everyday. Sofia usually comes into the kitchen door and waits until there is a bowl for her on the table, and today, she is doing the usual… wandering around the porch and kitchen, trying to figure out when her rice will be ready. It takes her a while to notice that I am lying on the couch. When she does, she comes over to shake my hand.
“Sofia, I just don’t think I can make your lunch today… can you come back tomorrow?” I ask. “I am sick today.”
She croons something that I don’t understand, and shuffles through her little old plastic bag. Finally, she takes out a crumpled packet of rehydration drink that we always give at the medical clinic—like salty Gatorade. Sofia must have had this little packet for “just in case” moments. She hands it to me, insisting that I drink it.
“Poor Sarita," she pats my shoulder. "You rest."